Wednesday, March 7, 2012

A Visit from the Past

A half a lifetime ago, one score and sixteen years, in 1976 this Twin Cities Irish/German/French boy moved to a north home near Northome, MN on the Koochiching/Itasca County line. I was accompanied by a long-time gal friend, Rozanna, of Mexican/Italian heritage who like me was an army brat, and hailed from California/Alaska. We lived in a log cabin on Island Lake and went to college at BSU. 

Later we bought 7.5 acres of land near Gemmel on Dark Lake and began to build the home that I reside in today. I had it lifted from it's posts by one Skinny Mohler and moved to a lot on the Big River's First City. But alas, I've out run myself. Pretty easy to do these days, I'm so slow, even I can beat me.

Four years later - as sometimes happens - things change. Rozanna moved to Alaska, later met Ernie and have now been married for more than two decades. I found a job in Bemidji and met Barbara, and we have been married for a similar period of time.

Rozanna and I kept in contact somewhat the first five years or so, but then lost the connection. Along comes Facebook, and a search now and then for a woman who didn't take her husbands name pops up. Lengthy letters follow rehashing old times - what we learned and what we taught. It was positive. 

So come last September Rozanna and Ernie traveled to Minnesota, her sister Sharon living in the Twin Cities as well as niece Felicia, and decide to spend a couple of days with Barbara and I.

While you're away, don't forget to write
See you in September
See you when the summer's through
Here we are... ~The Association
Here we Are. The ones at the top are in the middle and in the proper order.
The One on the Right is on the Left 
Now, the one on the left works in a bank
And the one in the middle drives a truck
The one on the right's an all-night deejay
And the guy in the rear got drafted. ~Johnny Cash
It didn't take too long to realize that Ernie is a bit of a scamp. Here visiting some friends while re-aclimating Rozanna to Bemidji, Ernie pinches a tomato...a round and red one boys...well, maybe that doesn't help.
Barbara quickly falls to the temptation of the forbidden fruit being part scamp herself, whilst Rozanna feigns surprise by the antics.
And Barbara said: The man, whom thou sat next to me to be my companion, gave me of the vine, and I did eat the fruit." (or is it a vegetable she wondered)
Well before long everyone in the Garden of Eatin' was imbibing in the fruit of the vine sans the bottle of wine.
Quickly they made their escape before they would be found out, apparently not realizing that there are less conspicuous escape vehicles than black Mustang convertibles with the top down.
Only to reassemble in another garden at Benny TwoToes. Ernie wanted to be served an Italian dish by an Italian dish, but he had to settle for a Norwegian.
Trying to make some sense of it all,
But I can see that it makes no sense at all,
Is it cool to go to sleep on the floor,
'Cause I don't think that I can take anymore.
Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right,
Here I am, stuck in the middle with you. ~Stealers Wheel
And Rozie said much to the bemusement of Barbie "I once wrote a poem this wide", and Barbie said "oh my, I thought you were going to say something else."
You make me laugh
'Cause your eyes they light the night
They look right through me, la, la, la
You bashful boy
You're hiding something sweet
Please give it to me, yeah, to me, ya
To me
Ooh, oh, talk to me some more
You don't have to go
You're the Poetry Man. ~Phoebe Snow
Now we ain't makin' stories,
and we ain't layin' plans.
Don't you know that a man still loves a woman,
and a woman still loves a man
just the same, though.
Ooh ooh ooh
ooh ooh ooh ooh.
Sisters are doin' it
for themselves. ~Annie Lennox
Kodachrome, they give us those nice bright colours 
They give us the greens of summers 
Makes you think all the world's a sunny day, oh yeah 
I got a Canon camera, I love to take a photograph 
So mama don't take my Kodachrome away ~Paul Simon

Every little swallow, every chickadee
Every little bird in the tall oak tree
The wise old owl, the big black crow
Flapping them wings sayin' go bird go. ~Bobby Day
I sailed an ocean, unsettled ocean
Through restful waters and deep commotion
Often frightened, unenlightened
Sail on, sail on sailor. ~Brian Wilson/Beach Boys

"Of all beasts he learned the language, 
Learned their names and all their secrets, 
How the beavers built their lodges, 
Where the squirrels hid their acorns, 
How the reindeer ran so swiftly, 
Why the rabbbit was so timid, 
Talked with them whene’er he met them, 
Called them “Hiawatha’s Brothers.” ~Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Song of Hiawatha
So Ernie is a fly fisherman, he's got more rods than Daytona and none are hot, he paid for them all and they're all reel.
Ernie told Barbie, how to drop the fly, in the weeds where the fish are, the answers how not why.

Matty told Hatty
That's the thing to do
Get you someone really
To pull the wool with you


AHHHHHHHHHHHH
Woolly bully
Watch it now-watch it
yah girl---watch it. ~Sam the Sham & the Pharaohs
While Barb 'n Ernie practice casting, Rose and I take a dip. I'm sure if anyone had seen us we'd be dealing with a bathing suit.  
Now it's Barb's turn to try what Ernie has taught.
Looks like she's got a pretty good arc to me, but I ain't no noah.
I always thought a tackle box was a section on the field where football players practiced.
Not so says Ernie, as he displays his collection of colorful flies and their storage cases of all types and sizes, some opening up like an accordion, boxes within boxes nesting like a Russian Matryoshka Doll.
If I only had a telephoto lens I'd put this eagle in your lap.
Eagle eyes the river.
A surprise. Barb showed just enough interest for Ernie to recruit her as a future fly fisher.
He presented her with a fine fly rod, complete with reel and a big long tube to keep it in, it's not a case is it? Nice thing about her new tube/case, Barb can pretend to be a river fisher or a pool shark.
Ernie not only shows Barb how to take it out but put it away. Here she tries a fishers knot, NOT!
Gotta get a photo of me in here once in awhile, how's this for a segue?
Winding down, Barb shows off her relatively new hobby of nature photography to Rozanna who has somewhat of a history of photography herself. Rozanna and I used to work together making photographs.
And now 35 years later Barbara and I are sharing the hobby
An ahhh haaa moment. I think the four of us knew the reunion would be fun and that we'd all get along, friends are forever aren't they? My daughter chose the following for the Father/Daughter dance. As time goes by the words go deeper.

There are places I'll remember
All my life, though some have changed
Some forever, not for better
Some have gone and some remain
All these places had their moments
With lovers and friends, I still can recall
Some are dead and some are living
In my life, I've loved them all. ~John Lennon/The Beatles

Sunday, January 8, 2012

My Search for the Headwaters as Lewis Cass

Blogger's Apology: Sorry, if you make it through to the end of this blog you're going to have to have a lot of interest in Minnesota history, the Mississippi Headwaters, me, or have a lot of time on your hands. I debated making this into two posts, an intro and the story, but decided to go this way lest the two get too separated. Some relief however, if and when you get through this intro, the rest is just a few dozen photos with captions telling a relatively short story, but there's lots of pics.
Here in my 60's, I appear to have regressed to high school and have regained interest in acting, writing, photography and film. I've given up politics and had to replace it with something, and so far this is more sane and fun. I've done two plays...a Christmas Carol twice in '10 & '11, (If you know me that's odd from a registered humbug) and also a documentary film that has historical reenactments ala the history channel, as you will see if you stick with it.

Eventually, "True Source" or Veritas Caput will be an interactive web site for the classroom about that history, but also a documentary film to be finished sometime in 2012. (Will it make the History Channel?) 

A trailer for the film has already been produced. Click on the links below for Veritas Caput web page, facebook page, and film trailer. You really ought to look at the trailer, it's good...might entice ya to come back and read all of this. ;-)

See True Source Trailer:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAiJ4C_d8xM

You can already interact with maps and still photos (eventually also with film) and learn all you could possibly want to by visiting the Veritas Caput Website:

Veritas Caput Web Page:   http://veritascaput.homestead.com/

And finally, you can learn even more about the process and become a friend of the Headwaters by visiting Veritas Caput Facebook page:


BACKGROUND on Lewis Cass
Veritas Caput
Did you know that Henry Rowe Schoolcraft journeyed to northern Minnsota TWICE, in search of the Mississppi River Headwaters? In addition to his trek of 1832 in which Ojibwe leader Ozawindib guided him to Lake Irasca, he was actually along on an earlier trip in 1820, in which he accompanied Governor Lewis Cass (of Michigan) up the Mississippi River as far as Red Cedar Lake.

Cass determined that Red Cedar Lake was probably the source of the Mississippi and, having had enough of the clouds of mosquitos in the north woods, turned around and went back home to Michigan! Red Cedar Lake was subsequently renamed Cass Lake in his honor--but Schoolcraft suspected that one of the tributaries of Cass Lake would lead further upstream to the ultimate source of the Mississippi, so he vowed to return someday and explore further.
We are getting ready for scenes depicting the young Schoolcraft on his first journey with Cass, as well as his later journey with Ozawindib. We would like to introduce you to the latest addition to our cast of explorers, Michael Meuers of Bemidji, who will be playing Lewis Cass.

Michael has long been active in local politics, having served for many years as chair of the Beltrami County Democrats. He is a civic and community leader involved with many community- building committees and programs, most recently helping to establish the Bemidji-area Ojibwe Language Project. He has also enjoyed theater since his first time on the stage in high school, and was most recently seen in the Paul Bunyan Playhouse production of "A Christmas Carol." Welcome Michael!
Background on the Project: Veritas Caput
"Veritas Caput" is a special film project that will result in the creation of both an historical documentary, and an interactive on-line map featuring audiovisual materials (music, soundscapes, photos, and film vignettes) to create a virtual expedition through the Mississippi Headwaters Region.

It is a project of the Minnesota Alliance for Geographic Education (MAGE), initiated with support from a grant from the Minnesota Historical Society's Historical and Cultural Legacy Grant program. It will also include a soundtrack produced with grants from the Minnesota Region II Arts Council, and will be linked as an educational resource to the curriculum projects of MAGE's "Mapping Minnnesota" program, and the National Geographic Society Education Foundation's Freshwater Education Initiative.
Filmed, written, produced, and Directed by Janet Rith-Najarian and Norwood Hall...along "with a little  help from their friends."
All photographs copyright 2011 by Janet Rith-Najarian of Rivers Edge Geographics, except in the case of public domain images and/or as otherwise noted. (The shots above either I or Barb took as well as a couple at the end.)

Here's the story, hope it doesn't bore you by being too long. Oh, one more note, if you double click on a photo, all photos will come up and you can look at them in larger format one at a time.

Governor Cass winds his way from Michigan into the north woods!


Lewis Cass was the governor of Michigan in 1820, which meant that the unorganized Minnesota territory was under his jurisdiction.
Curious to see what resources lay in the western "frontier" of his jurisdiction, he agreed to lead an expedition to explore it in May, 1820.
Clearly, such an expedition could result in improvements on this map!
And what an expedition it was! Beginnng near Detroit, the survey party headed north, skirting Michigan's Upper Peninsula...
...then they paddled west to the Apostle Islands and on to Duluth on the west end of Lake Superior
Governor Cass picked the young Indian agent Henry Rowe Schoolcraft to assist with the natural history survey of the trek, as Henry had studied a bit of geology--as well as linguistics-- during his time at Middlebury College.
Henry was to work closely with David Bates Douglass, who was brought along to study and collect plants, as well as doing topographic surveys during their journey
James Doty, secretary to the Michigan legislature, came along and kept a journal of the expedtion. His first entry, describing the mission of their journey, was dated May 24, 1820.
Adding to Doty's journal, Schoolcraft was to keep a weather log to aid in understanding the local climate. Fortunately he had in his possession a brand new thermometer of his very own, which made it possible to measure air temperature every day. His records demonstrate that the summer of 1820 was unusually cold! Nightime temperatures often dipped into the low 30's. He even reported puddles turning to ice on some nights, even in mid-July!
Measuring water temperature was one of Schoolcraft's jobs too.
So how does today compare to yesterday? Unfortunately, along with the cool temperatures, it is often rainy and cloudy--and this means difficulty assessing their bearings, since a view of the sun is needed to get latitude readings. It also means clouds of mosquitos! — with Reed Olson and Michael Meuers.
Meanwhile, Schoolcraft goes off into the woods to search for interesting rocks...
...brings back lots of new ones for his collection.
Schoolcraft explains to Cass why basalt stones might be found along the north shore of Lake Superior: volcanoes must have existed there years ago!
What else lies under the surface of the hills west of Lake Superior?
Cass and Schoolcraft examine a stone with interesting red striations, probably due to bands of iron. Might that Range of hills over yonder be rich with iron depsoits?
Having collected a variety of rock specimens and observed many different rock layers exposed along Lake Superior's shores and cliffs, Schoolcraft begins to piece together a schematic for the geologic hisotry of the region.
Meanwhile, David Bates Douglass meets up with the gang, eager to show them the treasure trove of interesting plants he's found while checking out the woods near their campsite.
Such a rich and interesting understory!
The land of pine and birch also has pockets of deciduous forest and herbaceous undergrowth, full of plants previously undescribed in the scientific record.
Douglass shows off some of his earlier findings, already pressed and dried in his trusty plant press.
Using a magnifying glass, he examines the characterisitcs of this new plant
Cass and Schoolcraft check it out as well. Could this plant have any economic use?
Probably not useful as an economic plant, but we should check with the Ojibwe neighbors to see what they think!
And as far as science goes...Do we know the genus? Or even the plant family? ...And should we care?
Of course, Douglass does care. One of the advantages of botanizing among unclassified plants is the principal of "Finders-Keepers-Namers." Douglass's journal describes his collection of a tiny purple flower in the mustard family, now named Purple Cress. Its scientific name is "Cardamine douglassii," which of course he named after himself!
Hey, wait, Hullllloooooo! Could it be that another boatload of voyageurs is headed our way?
Cass gets out his trusty telescope
Ahoy, indeed! A Voyageur canoe approaches.
Visitors headed our way! Make camp ready! And Schoolcraft, would you kindly rustle up a pot of coffee for the newcomers while I change? I need to look my governorial best!
Amongst the the voyageur contingent is fur trader William Morrison, now head agent at the Fond du Lac Fur post. So tell us, Morrison, is it true that the headwaters of the Mississippi River are near Lake of the Woods, and that we should travel on the Rainy River to get there? Pshaw, says Morrison, certainly not! That will add a month on to your trip, plus get you to the wrong place. West and slightly north from Fond du Lac is where you want to go! I'll sketch you a map to show you how to get to Red Cedar Lake, and from there you can go up the Biche River to Lac la Biche if the water isn't too low. — with Michael Meuers.
Morrison sketches out the suggested route with charcoal ink on birchbark
So, you pick up the St Louis river at Fond du Lac, hang a right, then portage left. Once you get to Sandy Lake you can pick up the Missippi River and go west from there.
Cass compares Morrison's sketch map to their official--but limited-- map of the western Great Lakes. The official map was made by Lewis and Clark, who never travelled to northern Minnesota but guessed on the details so that the map of their expedition up the Missouri wouldn't show a blank empty space in the adjacent territory.
What a coincidence that the Cass party crossed paths with William Morrison! Having spent the past 16 years in the Headwaters region, first as a fur trader in the hinterlands west of Lac Travers, and now as head agent of the fur post at Fond du Lac, Morrison knows his way around the territory. But now he needs to continue on his journey east for a rendezvous at Mackinac. Thank you, sir, for the good advice! — with Amos Miller.
Alrighty, then, says Schoolcraft, let's revise the expedition plan! — with Scott Alan Merschman and Reed Olson.
Here's an idea: the St Louis River empties into Lake Superior and can be followed upstream heading west, then north. However, its a treacherous rocky river! We can lighten the loads in our canoes, thus reducing our danger in travelling, if we split our group and send some backapacking overland all the way to to Sandy Lake.
The rest would take the river route, and then the shorter Savannah Portage.
Lets get our bearings...then off we go!
The river contingent heads off for the St Louis River, ferrying Governor Cass with them. Meanwhile, Schoolcraft and the overland group strike out for what should be a several day hike through the woods, but becomes days of slogging through miles of knee deep mud and getting lost in endless tamarack bogs.
Fortunately, both groups had plenty of provisions for lunch breaks! Lots of jerky and hard tack — with Scott Alan Merschman and Michael Meuers.
Finally, days later, the overland group straggles into the fur post at Sandy Lake, and meets up with the rest of the gang. Cass wonders, where have you been? I can show show you on the map, says Schoolcraft, but as for how it went...you don't even want to know...
Were the mosquitos really that big? Yes indeedy, and the swamp muck made us their prisoners for days...been there, done that, not doing it again!
At any rate, after all that slogging through bogs, we could use a good washing up...
At Sandy Lake, Cass decides to leave most of the group behind to rest up for awhile, and organizes a small survey party of several men and 3 small canoes who will foray ahead.
The plan is to paddle as quickly as possible up to Red Cedar Lake, then as quickly as possible back to Sandy Lake, meet up with the rest of their group, and then go down the Mississippi River from there to Fort Snelling.
To keep the canoe loads light en route to Red Cedar Lake, the survey party leaves the tents behind at Sandy Lake, and will pick them up on their return. This means a blanket for each man, and tons of mosquitos as bedfellows
SCHOOLCRAFT!!! Tell one of the boys to build a smoky fire, too many mosquitos are buzzing around my head and they're driving me NUTS! — with Michael Meuers.
After each sleepless night, it's an early start to the next day's paddle...and they're off again! Fortunately, other than one portage around Pokegama Falls, navigating the river is fairly easy.
Between Lake Winnipee and Red Cedar Lake, endless beds of wild rice blanket the shoreline. Botanist David Douglass is, of course, intrigued!
Finally, the survey party arrives at Red Cedar Lake. They see Star Island ahead of them, but don't have time to explore it.
Instead, the skirt the north shore, looking for the fur trader's outpost they've been told is located there.
Upon landing, the survey party encounters the local fur trader's Metis wife, picking berries. She invites them back to the cabin for a hot meal — with Anita Marocco.
You gentlemen stay here, I'll see what I can rustle up for dinner!
The gang has been up and paddling since 5 am, took a quick lunch break, arrived at the fur traders outpost at 4 in the afternoon, and plan to paddle back downstream on the river another 13 miles before the day is done, so, yes indeed, a nice hot meal is very welcome!
The fur trader's wife apologizes that she has so little to offer, but it was a late spring, and there hasn't been much to harvest yet from the fur post garden. However, she does have some freshly made wild rice and venison sausages, boiled and seasoned young potatoes, wild rice cooked with maple sugar, and of course, fresh berries! After days of dried beef jerky and hard tack--same old, same old--this meal looks like a feast.
Some coffee to top off your meal, good sir? — with Anita Marocco
At the mention of coffee, Schoolcraft is reminded that he has gifts for his hostess. First, a bag of his own coffee, which he roasted in a skillet over the fire and ground by pounding it with rocks. Hmm mmm, good coffee! Schoolcraft is, after all, known to be quite a coffee conoisseur. — with Scott Alan Merschman and Reed Olson.
Thanks so much! You brought me coffee just in time to replenish my waning supplies! And Waabooz brand coffee is my favorite! — with Anita Marocco, Reed Olson and Michael Meuers.
But that's not all, Schoolcraft has another gift to present. Oh my, what have we here?
Copper nuggets! Schoolcraft collected them on the Keewanaw peninsula in Lake Superior. Perfect for a new necklace!
Having enjoyed a good meal, feeling satisfied that Red Cedar Lake was the headwater source of the Mississippi River, having approved Schoolcraft's suggestion that the lake be renamed Cassina Lake in honor of Governor Cass, the crew is ready to turn around and go back downstream. Bon Voyage! — with Scott Alan Merschman.
However, Schoolcraft wasn't convinced that Lake Cassina--later called Cass Lake-- really was the great river's source...he wondered about the tributaries that fed into it, and vowed to come back some day to investigate them further. So, in the end,assisting Cass on his 1820 expedition set the stage for Schoolcraft's own later expedition to Itasca in 1832, and his subsequent fame....and infamy! Stay tuned for the rest of the story....
Amos and Amos. Miller and Einerson. Miller is the son of Known Only Locally musicians Jim and Kristi Miller. Einerson is a good liberal who's been promoting solar energy forever, and the Father of Sarah Jane. The rustic old cabin where the picnic above was held is on the Einerson property.
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